Our Environment Department is the main reference point for the leather supply chain on all matters related to innovation, research, environment, and safety. Its expertise ranges from the development of new technologies aimed at reducing environmental impact to the improvement of process efficiency; from technical support and knowledge sharing on materials, products, and production processes to the analysis of legislative compliance with national and international environmental and chemical regulations, as well as the monitoring of opportunities for new technological developments.
The Environment and Specifications Department also develops research programs — for individual tanneries and business consortia — focused on material traceability, the treatment and reuse of waste and by-products (SOA) from the tanning process, the promotion of circular best practices, and the analysis of product non-conformities and durability.
Sustainability
For the Italian tanning industry, sustainability is not just a focus — it is an identity dimension, a driver of development, and a recognized hallmark of excellence.
Since 2002, our Environment and Specifications Department has published an annual Sustainability Report documenting the sector’s results, progress, and performance in environmental, social, and economic areas.
Starting from 2023, this tool has evolved into a continuously updated online platform, available at the following link: https://sustainability.unic.it/en
Product safety for leather goods and chemical specifications
For years, UNIC – Italian Tanneries has invested in ensuring the safety of its employees and final consumers, working closely with other associations in the supply chain, universities, and research centers with established expertise in the tanning industry.
Our Environment and Specifications Department constantly monitors and updates, in real time, the evolution of European and international legislation concerning the compliance of the chemical composition of leather articles and the reporting criteria for sustainability parameters.
Through the UNIC Specification (Leather and Chemical Substances), it supports tanneries in managing the requirements related to the chemical characterization of leathers and the demands contained in customer specifications. The UNIC Specification is an easy-to-use and regularly updated tool that lists:
- the substances relevant to leather, regulated at EU and non-EU levels (with country-specific references), the applicable legislation and the concentration or use limits to be observed;
- the recognized testing method, where available, to be used for verification;
On this topic, the Environment and Specifications Department provides support in analyzing client specifications (particularly the sections related to chemical substances and physical-fastness performance) and collaborates with brands in revising their proprietary Restricted Substance Lists (RSLs).
In collaboration with universities and research centers, the Department is engaged in research and in-depth studies on substances that are attracting increasing attention from European and international authorities.
For example:
- Study of the causes of chromium VI formation in leather and development of substances aimed at eliminating its presence.
- Analysis of emerging regulatory requirements concerning PFAS, particularly in light of restrictions already in force in the United States and possible extensions within the European context.
- Monitoring of proposals for new SVHCs, restrictions, and authorizations (e.g., sensitizers, glutaraldehyde, bisphenols, and polysiloxanes), preparing comments and providing data during Calls for Evidence, engaging with national and international authorities, and offering technical support to companies.
- Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) The Environment and Specifications Department is accredited to provide training on ZDHC programs, an activity reserved exclusively for member companies. ZDHC’s goal of eliminating the use of hazardous chemicals focuses on the following areas of corporate training: MRSL and compliance guidelines, wastewater quality, audit protocols, research, data, disclosure, and education.
European Regulations
Our Environment and Specifications Department constantly monitors the evolution of the European legislative framework, including the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD) and the related European Sustainability Reporting Standards (ESRS), in order to keep companies informed about the implications for the tanning sector.
It is also actively involved in initiatives promoted by the European Commission under the Ecodesign Regulation, participating in technical forums for the development of environmental criteria applicable to industrial products in the fashion sector.
At the same time, continuous updates are provided on REACH and other major international chemical and environmental regulations, with the aim of supporting companies in managing legislative compliance and meeting the requirements of their target markets.
Standardization
Our Environment and Specifications Department takes part in the development and updating of national and European standards, keeping member companies informed and anticipating possible impacts on business management and production processes. It works closely with national and international authorities and institutions, collaborating in technical and scientific working groups and promoting the interests of the sector through lobbying activities. UNIC – Italian Tanneries also holds the presidency of the UNI/CT 013 “Leather, Hides and Leather Goods” committee, serves as secretariat of CEN TC 289, and chairs three of its working groups: WG2 (Physical Testing), WG3 (Colour Fastness), and WG4 (Technical Specifications).
Each of these committees is responsible for proposing, drafting, and revising technical standards at the national (UNI/CT 013) and European/international (CEN/TC 289) levels.
The texts of the approximately 160 reference standards are periodically reviewed and updated.
In addition, new standards (chemical, physical, fastness, technical specifications) are developed and validated each year, in line with legislative and market needs.
Circular Economy
In the context of the circular economy, our Environment and Specifications Department actively participates in national and international working groups dedicated to defining standards on circularity, bio-based materials, and life cycle assessment guidelines, contributing to the development of technical references that highlight the best practices adopted by companies in the sector.
UNIC – Italian Tanneries takes part in the UNI/CT 057 and CEN/TC 473 “Circular Economy” committees, which are organized into four working groups focused on implementing the international ISO 59000 series at the European level. In particular, ISO 59020 has been the subject of an internal study on the Italian tanning industry, the results of which enabled participation in the technical team—coordinated by UNI—responsible for aligning the national standard UNI/TS 11820 with ISO 59020, with the goal of providing practical tools to enhance and promote circular economy practices within the sector.
